São Jorge Cheese: 500 Years of Tradition Brought by Flemish Settlers

Few products sum up an island as well as São Jorge Cheese sums up São Jorge: strong, cured over months, following a recipe that’s crossed five centuries practically unchanged.

Brought by Flemish settlers in the 15th century

Cheese production on São Jorge dates back to the island’s earliest settlement, in the mid-15th century. Flemish settler Wilhelm van der Haegen, who settled in the Topo area, encouraged members of his community — also of Flemish origin and experienced in producing meat, milk, and dairy — to make cheese, taking advantage of a highland climate similar to their homeland’s.

A method almost unchanged for 500 years

According to Portugal’s Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development, São Jorge Cheese’s uniqueness comes both from the island’s soil and climate conditions and from its production method, virtually unchanged over its roughly 500 years of existence. Raw milk is curdled with animal rennet, pressed, and left to cure for at least 90 days — 30 at room temperature and a minimum of 60 additional days at 12-14°C.

Protected Designation of Origin since 1986

The Demarcated Region of São Jorge Cheese was created in 1986, the same year UNIQUEIJO, the São Jorge Dairy Farmers’ Cooperative Union, was founded, now responsible for certified production. The São Jorge Cheese Confraternity has acted as the certifying body since 1991.

Portugal’s most-produced PDO cheese

With about 2,200 tonnes produced annually — accounting for more than half of Portugal’s entire PDO cheese output — São Jorge Cheese supports a significant share of the island’s economy, supplied by around 200 farmers and a herd of 20,000 cattle.

Where to taste and visit

• Where to try it: any restaurant or grocery store on the island, with curing ranging from mild (3 months) to strong (40 months).
• Guided tours: some cooperatives, such as Uniqueijo in Velas, offer tours of the production process.
• How to spot the original: look for the numbered casein seal, which identifies the producer and the cheese’s age.

Nearby highlights

Vila das Velas, home to Uniqueijo, is a good starting point to learn about the production process.

After trying São Jorge Cheese, pair the experience with a visit to Café Nunes, in Fajã dos Vimes, to round off the island’s culinary route.

Learn more about the gastronomy of the Azores.